How To Propagate Plants By Air Layering
Air layering is a great way to propagate many types of plants, especially woody plants. It’s also about the only way to propagate plants that don’t root from cuttings or produce seed. Propagating plants by air layering is an easy process that will create a whole new plant for your usually in about six weeks, but some plants can take several months to form roots. For the best results stems should be at least the size of a pencil or even as large as your finger. You can either slice off about an inch or two of the top layer of the stem or you can make a circle around the stem and remove all of the bark for several inches. Either way you want to remove the outer layer to completely expose the bare wood. For non-woody plants you only need to gently scrape the outer layer of the stem off. Be careful not to scrape too deeply, small stems won’t be able to hold the weight of the root ball and will break. You can also just make a small slit into the stem and use a toothpick or other small object to hole the wound open. Applying rooting hormone to the wound will help the plant take root much faster. Just apply a small amount with a cotton swab or the tip of your finger into the cut area of the plant. Wet some Sphagnum moss and squeeze out the excess water, don’t use peat moss. The amount of moss that you’ll need to use will depend on the stem that you’re air layering. Smaller stems can’t hold the weight a larger stem can hold, so adjust the amount you use accordingly. Wrap the moist Sphagnum moss completely around the wound and use some fairly thick plastic to secure the moss into place. The plastic should extend a few inches above and below the cut section and can be held in place with string or small wires. You can use aluminum foil to cover the moss instead of plastic, but you won’t be able to see the new roots. You want to seal the plastic or foil so that it’s fairly water tight. Securely fastening the moss ball will help keep the moisture from evaporating and you’ll get much faster, better results. The last thing that you should do is to cover the moss ball with foil. Of course, you’ll only need to do this if you used plastic as your covering. Direct sunlight can damage the newly forming roots and the foil will protect them. Now all you need to do is wait for the roots to grow. If you use plastic, remove the foil covering and check for roots after about six weeks. If you see some well established roots you can cut the stem off about two inches below the moss ball and plant it in it’s own pot. If there aren’t any good roots, just replace the foil and wait a few more weeks to check again. When you do get ready to pot your new plant, be very careful when removing the plastic. You should leave the moss around the roots, it will help the plant retain moisture and trying to remove it will break a lot of the tender roots off. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
Zebra Plant
Common Name: Zebra Plant Latin Name: Aphelandra squarrosa ‘Louisae’ Family: Acanthaceae Plant Type: Broadleaf shrub Origin: Brazil Blooming Time: Year round Humidity: High Temperature: 60 – 85 *F Height: 4′ – 6′ Color: Green, white variegation Insects and Diseases: Aphids, scale, spider mites, mealy bugs, whitefly Description: The Zebra Plant has dark green, glossy leaves that are ovate with pointy tips. The contrasting white variegated veins make this a striking plant for the home. Flowers are yellow to bright yellow and grow in bracts that are clustered on a spike that can reach up to 4″ long. Lighting: This plant will flourish best when it’s given a supply of bright indirect sunlight or part shade. But, if the plant is given long periods of light it will be encouraged to bloom more often. Watering: This plant is a little hard to care for as too much or too little water can quickly cause the leaves to drop. Water when the top of the soil has just started to feel dry, this plant likes to be kept moist. Less water is needed during the winter months or after the plant has flowered. Soil: Zebra plants like rich soil that retains water, but drains well. An African Violet mix can be used and pots should have holes in the bottom for adequate drainage. To make your own potting soil mixture, use 1 part coarse sand or Perlite, 1 part garden soil, 2 parts humus or peat. Fertilization: During the growing seasons, spring and summer, the Zebra plant needs to be feed weekly. A good quality water soluble plant food works well. Propagation: Both air layering and stem cuttings can be propagated in the spring and should be placed in a mixture of Perlite and moist peat. The pot can be covered with plastic to retain moisture and set in indirect sunlight. Cuttings should be 4-6 inches long and kept moist, but not overly wet and you’ll get better results if the cuttings are kept from 70 – 80*. Repot only after the plant has gotten well established. Toxicity-Poisonous: While not listed on the poisonous plant list, the sap from a Zebra plant may cause skin irritation to some people. Tips: Zebra plants normally don’t bloom very often, but can be coaxed into blooming by prolonging it’s exposure to light during the day. Remove the flower spikes after the flower has died. Avoid getting water on the plants leaves, wet spots on the leaves can turn into leaf spot fungus. If you get any water on the leaves, dry them off. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
Tips For Planting A Terrarium
When setting up your terrarium the bottom three levels should all be flat on top. But, you can do a little designing when adding the soil. Creating valleys or small hills and slopes will give the terrarium a more natural look! (Also see How To Set Up A Terrarium) You can even add small creatures to the landscape like frogs, turtles or lizards. Depending on the size of your container, you can even place tiny bowls down in the soil to create small ponds. There’s no limit to the types of decorations that you can use as long as their size is appropriate. Before you begin planting you need to get a basic idea of how you want the landscape to look. The landscaping should be done so that the best visual effect is directed towards the view of the terrarium that will be most noticeable. If the container will be in view from all sides, place a larger plant in the middle with smaller ones around it. Front views should have larger plants in the back and smaller ones in the front. You can either set the plants in the pots in the terrarium or in the floor and arrange them around until you get the desired look. This can also help you decide where you want a small hill or where you need a little valley in the landscape. Once you’ve done all of the planning and got the placement in mind, you’re ready to start planting your miniature garden. You don’t need any special tools, unless you’re using a bottle or container that has a small opening. For small mouthed containers you can use a funnel for the soil and long sticks or even chop sticks to place the plants into the soil. For most containers a large spoon will work fine as a miniature shovel and you can even use a fork for a rake. Dig holes in the soil large enough to accommodate the plants roots. While loosening the roots is a good idea for plants grown in the garden or large pots, leave the roots together for the terrarium. This will help slow the plants growth and make the terrarium look much nicer longer. Once you’ve gotten the roots set into the soil, gently pack the soil around the plant. The roots will still need room to grow, so don’t place the plants to closely together and don’t set them right up against the walls of the container. After you’ve gotten all the plants in place just slightly moisten the soil. Less watering is needed in terrariums since the lids will help the soil contain moisture. If you notice large drops of water on the lid, leave the lid open to let some of the water evaporate. Terrariums should have some condensation of the walls and top of the container, but large drops of water is a sign there’s too much water. Terrariums that are completely enclosed require very little watering, but if you notice that there’s no condensation or moisture at all on the inside of the container you should water the plants. Normally plants that are in terrariums don’t need fertilization. But, if you feel that your plants need a little extra nutrients you can use a good quality all purpose plant food. However, you should only use a weak mixture of fertilizer, mixing one fourth of the recommended amount with water is plenty. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
How To Set Up A Terrarium
A terrarium is basically an indoor, miniature garden that is landscaped much like an outdoor plant or flower bed. They’re usually plastic containers that have a lid or covering, but can be made of glass. Terrariums contain several different types of plants instead of just one. You can purchase many different types of terrariums, some are even just oversized bottles or fish bowls. You can use any type of container that you want as long as you can put a covering over the top of it. Many people use fish aquariums, the choice is up to you. Just remember the smaller the container the fewer plants that you can have. Terrarium plants need to be compatible with each other. Since they’re in the same container you can’t really give one more water or more light than another one. So, try to make sure that all of the plants have the same water and lighting requirements. And, also try to choose plants that are slower growing and will be a little smaller than the height of the container when full grown. Any plants, rocks or wood that you use inside the terrarium should be inspected for any type of disease or pests. The terrarium will create a tropical like atmosphere and will be a breeding ground for any insects that are present. Rinse any rocks or wood thoroughly in hot water before using them. The way that you set up a terrarium is just as important as the plants that you use. Choose a good quality potting soil to avoid any organisms being in the soil. Your plant bed will have four separate layers and the first three layers should all be level and even. The first layer is of course for drainage. You can use small gravels, pebbles or even coarse sand to provide adequate drainage. You will want to have at least a inch thick layer and depending on the size of the terrarium you may need as much as three inches of drainage. For the best results it’s recommended that you apply a layer of activated charcoal on top of the gravels. You can use the same type that is used for aquariums, the charcoal will help filter fumes out of the terrariums air that are produced from decomposing organic matter. For the third layer you should spread a thin layer of sphagnum moss over the charcoal. The moss will prevent the soil from sinking down into the bottom layers. Without the moss most of the soil will just fill up the gaps between the gravels that you used for drainage and your plants roots won’t have enough soil to survive. Finally, you’re ready to add the soil to the terrarium. A good potting soil is all that is needed, but if you’d like you can purchase soil that is made specifically for terrariums. The only difference is usually that the terrarium soil will have some added sand or drainage, which you can add yourself. If you feel that you need extra drainage in the soil, add two parts soil with one part coarse sand and one part humus. You won’t need to fertilize the plants for quite some time, the soil will contain enough nutrients to last the plants for a long time. Always use builders sand, never use any sand from a beach, the salt content will kill the plants. And, if your terrarium is going to be a desert garden with lots of cactus, use more drainage in the bottom and add more sand to the soil. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
Growing Healthy Cactus Indoors
Growing a cactus indoors is one of the easiest things for the budding gardener to attempt, as cacti are plants used to tough growing conditions and lack of care. Although incredibly beautiful, cacti do not require very much care at all and, in fact, thrive in the most difficult of environments, making them perfect for the less-than-qualified grower to attempt. They are ideal plants for the beginner, offering a host of benefits with just a little amount of effort. All that cacti need to foster growth is a couple of hours of sunlight, a little bit of water, and good soil. Make sure that the soil does not retain large amounts of water as it is easy to over-water plants which thrive in desert areas. In fact, watering only once or twice every four weeks will be enough for the cactus of your choice, although this does vary from plant to plant. During the spring and summer months, more water is needed; conversely, in the winter and fall months less water is required. The best soil to use is a mixture of commercial potting soil with sand, although sea sand is not recommended. Make sure that the pot in which you place the cactus is porous, as the most common mistake made in caring for cacti is over-watering. Nutrients are, of course, important, and fertilization is only necessary perhaps once every month or two. Sunlight is the deciding factor as cacti love sunlight, and given the proper sunlight, soil, and water, soon you will have a beautiful, blooming cactus. There are many reasons to choose a cactus as a house plant: with over eight thousand to choose from, the varieties of color and shape allow the casual gardener to spruce up any living space with ease. As cacti are natural survivors in the toughest of conditions, only a modicum of real care is necessary to see amazing...
Growing and Caring for the Bonsai
Bonsai trees are perhaps the most curious looking plants in the horticultural world with their petite appearance. For beginners, growing and caring for a bonsai tree may seem like a steep mountain to climb, but if one has the right guide, chooses a species wisely and devotes the appropriate amount of attention to the tree, caring for a bonsai is a very fulfilling experience. As a beginner, one must be careful to select a good starter species. The most commonly used starter tree is the Chinese Elm because of their adaptability. The Japanese Garden Juniper is another adaptable tree and is a common choice for bonsai beginners as well as enthusiasts because of their strength and their ability to live for such a long time. Watering a Bonsai Watering a bonsai is different than watering most plants because it is kept in such a small pot with a relatively small amount of soil. Different species will require different watering patterns. A good rule of thumb is to feel the soil with your finger. If the top half-inch of soil is dry, then you will need to water. If it is moist, then you should not water the tree. When watering, it is best to apply the water from the top of the soil and let it soak down throughout the plant. Do this a few times to ensure that it is watered throughout the pot. Junipers will do well in full sun, as do Chinese Elms. However, with the Elms be sure to acclimate it to the sun slowly if it is not used to full exposure to sunlight. Both trees may be kept outdoors, but ensure that they are exposed to the outdoors slowly if they are not acclimated to such conditions yet. Bonsai and Fertilizer As far as fertilization goes, fertilize your tree in growing season, but not in winter dormancy season. Only begin to fertilize when your tree is sprouting fresh leaves and do not fertilize your tree if it is weak or dying as this will only hurt the tree further. Training and shaping a Bonsai The trick to keeping a bonsai small is accomplished through pruning the leaves and roots. Prune the roots after the winter dormancy stage prior to a new growing cycle. The leaves should be kept pruned as well, but be sure not to prune your leaves and roots too much as this will cause the tree to grow weak and even die. Copper or aluminum wiring is used to shape branches to the desired style. There are several different styles bonsai may take, formal upright (as its name implies, it stands straight up right), informal upright (same was formal upright except for a slight bend in some branches), cascade (the apex of the tree reaches below the lip of the pot) and windblown (given the effect of wind blowing through the tree) to name a few. Through careful wiring and shaping of the branches, the bonsai tree may be given the desired style when the branches grow strong enough to stand alone. Copyright 2008...
Recent Comments