How To Grow Impatiens
Impatiens are one of the easiest flowers to grow, only coming in second to Petunias. They are often referred to as “Touch Me Nots” because when you touch the seed pods they explode spreading seeds in every direction. There are approximately 1,000 different species of Impatiens. But, there are only two varieties that are widely available, Impatiens balsamina and Impatiens walleriana. Impatiens can be planted in almost any area in the garden which makes them a very popular flower. Depending on the variety you choose, Impatiens can thrive in either sun or shade. They are an excellent choice for hanging baskets. And, are often used as an edging around porches, decks, sidewalks and trees. While they are easy to care for, they do still need some basic care. There are several different varieties available that grow from 8 inches in height up to two feet tall. They come in a wide selection of colors including pink, red, white, orange and violet. They are also available in a combination of two colors, such as pink and white. Impatiens are classified into three types, solo, partially doubled and doubled. Some varieties have flowers that are flat, while others very closely resemble roses. One of the most important factors in growing beautiful lush Impatiens is water. Too much water and too little water are both deadly to the plant. The key is to keep the soil moist without allowing the plants roots to stand in water. These flowers have soft stems which will wilt very quickly if they don’t get enough water. However, make sure the soil has good drainage to keep the roots from rotting and black fungus from developing. If you plant your Impatiens in the shade, they will require less water than if they are in the sun. Because they do wilt quickly, your plant can literally tell you that it’s not getting enough water. In hot, humid conditions, they may need a moderate amount of water on a daily basis. If the plants are used as an edging for larger plants they will need more water and fertilizer to compensate for what is absorbed by the larger plants. Impatiens can easily be grown in pots or hanging baskets, but they will need a little more attention. The soil in baskets and pots dries out rapidly especially on hot days. You can test the soil by inserting your finger into the dirt about 2 inches. Water only when the soil is dry at that depth. To be safe, you should check your basket or pot every other day until you get a good idea of how quickly the soil is drying out. Standard potting soil isn’t a good choice for Impatiens. It’s generally very dense and won’t allow for good drainage. Choose a potting soil that is classified as a “Pro Mix” or “Nursery Mix”. These types of potting soils are light and airy and will provide better drainage. They are also disease free and can keep your flowers healthier. Like any other plant, Impatiens need fertilizer to grow strong and lush. A high quality general purpose plant food will work fine. If your plants are in the yard, fertilize them about once each month. But, if they are in hanging baskets or pots, they will require a good fertilizer every two weeks. You can also use plant food spikes to supply fertilizer every time you water. Although Impatiens can grow in partial shade, full shade, or in the sun, full sun for 8 hours can quickly kill these tender plants. A few hours of sun each day is much better than all day sun. If you do want to plant them in an area with full sun, they will need to be allowed to adapt gradually. You can easily do this by exposing them to longer periods of direct sun over the period of a week. You can easily grow Impatiens from seed. You can start the seeds a few weeks before the last frost and then transplant the young seedlings outdoors, or into a container. Lightly cover the seeds with a thin layer of dirt, keep them moist and warm. You can also propagate Impatiens from stem cuttings. The cuttings need to be around 3 to 4 inches long and should be potted in moist sand or peat moss until roots form. To prevent diseases and fungus never allow the soil to be soaked for any length of time. Providing proper drainage is the best form of prevention for plant problems. Always remove any dead blooms, leaves or stems which will rot and increase the chances of diseases and fungus. Impatiens are...
Tips To Reduce Plant Infestations
Many types of insects just love plants, in fact as we all know, plants are a source of food for many insects. So, it’s inevitable that sooner or later if you have plants you’re going to get infestations of some type of plant pest. There are some simple steps that you can take to greatly decrease the chances of your plants becoming infested. When re-using pots always be sure to clean them thoroughly with hot water and soap. And, always keep you planting tools clean as well. Using sterile or pasteurized potting soil can also help prevent insects and diseases. Both have been treated to kill any organisms present in the soil. Remove any dead plants, leaves or flowers as soon as possible, rotting plant matter can quickly attract pests. Provide proper drainage so that the bottom of the soil and the plants roots aren’t sitting in water. Some parasites, molds and fungus are highly attracted to wet areas and standing water could be an invitation. But, it will also rot the roots and isn’t good for the plant. Watering should always be done early in the day. The earlier the better, but as long as the plant has time to thoroughly dry before evening it’s alright to water them. Both fungi and molds thrive during the night in dark, damp places. And, other insects will take advantage of the dark, wet area for breeding. Giving your plants a bath now and then can also help to keep them pest free. You can either wipe the plants leaves and stems with a rag and some mild soap in lukewarm or water, or sprits them with soap and water in a spray bottle. Always inspect any new plants carefully and if you’re plants have been outside for the summer and you’re bringing them indoors inspect them as well for pests. Even a plant that has been hanging or sitting on a porch can quickly attract pests and bringing them indoors can infest any other plant that you have. With the proper care and fresh air most plants won’t have an insect or disease problem, but there are some plants that are more prone to problems. Inspecting your plants regularly is the best way to ensure that they’re pest free and can live a long healthy life! Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
Some Houseplants Are Poisonous To Your Pet
Houseplants aren’t only beautiful, they’re very beneficial. They adorn and decorate our homes with nature and greenery and they help clean the air we breathe. But, plants can sometimes be very poisonous and toxic. They not only pose a threat to us, some can be very dangerous to our pets. There are countless numbers of plants both indoors and out that are poisonous. But, the majority of houseplants come from areas that have a tropical climate. And, the most of the houseplants that are toxic come from tropical areas! We try to protect our pets from poisons like pesticides, cleaning solutions and automotive products. We keep them healthy by keeping their shots up to date and taking them for regular checkups. But, often we don’t even think about the plants in our home being poisonous. Most houseplants will only produce mild symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, drooling or diarrhea in our pets. They may also cause irritation and swelling to the mouth, throat, lips and tongue. And, if they get the sap into their eyes, it could cause sever burning and swelling. More serious symptoms can range from seizures, hallucinations and coma. Your pet might experience severe abdominal pain and tremors. Other more serious problems can even include heart, kidney, liver and respiratory disorders. And, some houseplants can literally kill them, especially if they ingest a large amount of the plant. In some cases only certain parts of the plant are toxic such as the leaves or flowers. But, some types of plants are poisonous from their roots to their leaves! And, while most houseplants are only mildly toxic, your beloved pet could be very sick and in pain for days. Some of the most common houseplants that are poisonous include croton, dumb cane, English ivy, heartleaf philodendron and even rubber trees. Poinsettia’s are popular plants at Christmas, but they can cause cramps and diarrhea and if the sap gets into your dogs eyes, it can even cause blindness. If your pet does ingest a toxic plant, the first thing you should do is induce vomiting. The faster you get the plant out of your pets stomach, the less toxins that will get absorbed into it’s body. You can give your pet a little vegetable oil, egg whites or milk to help coat their stomach and it’s recommended that you give them an enema with warm water. Of course, if your pet is experiencing more serious symptoms like seizures, vomiting blood or has already went into a coma, get it to the vet as quickly as possible. Time is of the utmost importance in treating poisoning. Most pets like to chew on things, but puppies and kittens are even more likely to chew on your plants. Do some research on all of the plants you have in your home. If they’re poisonous, either put them somewhere out of your pets reach, or give them to someone that doesn’t have pets. If you find a plant that you want to purchase, get as much information as you an about it before you bring it into your home. Education is the best protection you can offer your pets to keep them safe and healthy. Written by Connie Corder, Copyright 2008...
Using Houseplants As Part Of Your Interior Design
We all want to spruce up our home and make it look good. We add all sorts of imported furniture like coffee tables, dining tables, sofas etc. But the best that you can do to bring the zing to your home is to add houseplants. Using houseplants as a part of your interior design is very beneficial as it cleans the air, brings positive energy and gives your home a beautiful look. Tips For Using Houseplants To Decorate Your Home If your room is small in height, then you can use tall and slender plants like Dracaena marginata. They give a feeling of a high ceiling in the room. Flowering plants may be grown in children’s room and the living room as their brightness brings mental peace and serenity. Flowering plants like Orchids, Anthuriums, and African violets can also be used on dining tables, coffee tables, fireplace mantles or on the stairs to be eye-catching. Small bushy plants like Ficus can be used to fill dead corners in the room. If you don’t have adequate floor space to grow plants, then you can hang them from ceiling. This has additional benefit as you can use colorful pots to brighten up your home. To make your room look larger, use green plants near windows if there is greenery outside. This will make your indoors an extension of the outside greenery. Quick Care Tips For Houseplants 1. Certain plants may look beautiful but can be very fatal. Some species of Ivy can be very harmful to your kids or pets. Additionally, they may trigger an allergic reaction. 2. Grow the plants as per the lighting conditions in your room. If you get adequate light then flowering plants can be used. In case of shady rooms you may use plants that require less light. 3. Temperature is also necessary. Do not keep plants near the window during winter season. Your room must have temperature control functionality like air conditioners. 4. Watering your plants is essential. But never overwater. Keep water in an open container so that all the chlorine present in it is dissipated into the atmosphere. 5. Use required quantity of fertilizers and insecticides to protect you plant. Implementation of all the above techniques and tips will be very helpful in growing houseplants as a part of your interior...
Peace Lily
Common Name: Peace Lily, White Flag, White Sails, Spath Flower Latin Name: Spathiphyllum Family: Aroid Plant Type: Perennial Origin: Central and South America Blooming Time: Year round Humidity: High humidity Temperature: 60-85°F Height: 5′ H 4′ W Color: Dark green foliage, white flowers Insects and Diseases: Thrips, mealy bugs Description: The Peace Lillies are very pretty houseplants even just for their dark green foliage that gracefully arches over. The leaves can grow to over one foot in length. The white blossoms develop on top of slender, straight stems and create a dramatic effect against the dark green foliage. The blossoms are generally taller than the foliage and resemble a Calla Lily. Flowers begin a pale green and turn to a creamy white as it matures. They’re long lasting blooms, but have a very light fragrance. Lighting: Peace Lily’s will thrive in areas of low light, 5 to 8 feet from a window is a great location for this plant. The plant shouldn’t be set in direct sunlight for long periods of time, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Watering: Peace Lily’s need evenly moist soils, but the soil should never be soggy. Standing water will kill the root system, as a matter of fact the most common reason Peace Lily’s die is because of over-watering. Normally watering about once a week is plenty for this plant. Many have found success with watering by allowing the leaves to slightly droop before adding water. However, keep in mind that if you allow the plant to droop too much, it can damage the plant. Severely drooping leaves means the plant has been dry long enough to damage some of the roots and the bottom leaves may turn yellow and fall off. To help provide the higher humidity levels this plant likes, mist the foliage several times a week. Soil: A high quality potting soil works well for Peace Lily’s. Choose one that will drain good, but still retain water. The soil should be well aerated and if the soil packs to tightly, add Perlite, sand or peat to the mixture. If you want to make your own soil mixture you can add equal parts of garden soil, coarse sand or Perlite and peat or humus. It’s best to use a pot that has a hole for drainage to prevent root rot. Peace Lily’s like to be somewhat root bound, re-potting is only needed about every other year. Just move up to a pot that is just a couple of inches larger than the original pot so that the roots will still be slightly together. Fertilization: The plant will usually be fine with no fertilization at all, but if you do feed the plant, moderate fertilization is all that is needed. A well balanced fertilizer with a 20-20-20 diluted at one fourth of the recommended dose is enough to suffice. If the tips of your leaves or roots are turning brown, you’re fertilizing the plant too much. Propagation: The main way of propagating Peace Lily’s in a home environment is by plant division. New crowns will form at the side of the plant that can be cut away and re-potted. Choose crowns that have a least two leaves present and use a sharp knife to separate it from the parent plant. Try to remove as many roots as you can with the crown. Pot the new plant in a small pot about 3″ in diameter. It’s best to use the same type of potting mix that the parent plant was growing in. Water the plant right after potting, but don’t apply fertilizer for at least three months. Toxicity-Poisonous: The sap of the plant contains oxalate crystals and ingestion can cause swelling of the tongue and throat. And, can cause dermatitis or skin irritations in some people. An upset stomach is generally experienced if parts of the plant are ingested. But, it would take a large amount of plant ingestion to cause severe problems. Care: If you experience skin irritation from contact with the plant sap, thoroughly wash the affected area with warm water and soap. If serious symptoms occur from contact or ingestion, contact your physician. Tips: While Peace Lily’s prefer natural light, they can be used in rooms that have no windows at all. They can thrive very well under fluorescent lighting alone. Peace Lily’s should be kept out of any drafts or cold air to keep from damaging the plant. They can be misted frequently with warm water and to provide extra moisture, place the pot on top of gravels in the watering dish. Remove any dying or dead flowers, they will take energy...
How To Grow An Indoor Herb Garden
If you love cooking and love plants and indoor herb garden is a great way to combine the two. Many types of herbs can be easily grown indoors and require minimal space. Small pots can even be used to grow herbs on the windowsill in your kitchen. Plants can be either purchased at a local nursery or you can start them from seeds in starter trays or peat pellets. Herbs can be grown in any type of container, glass, clay or plastic. If you use clay you will need to water them more often as clay pots allow the moisture to evaporate more quickly. Herbs that can easily be grown indoors include: Chives, Sage, Dill, Oregano, Mint, Chamomile, Fenne, Parsley, Basil, Mint, Thyme, Rosemary, Chervil, Savory, Bayleaf, and Garlic. Herbs can be started from seed any time during the year. But, to get a head start on having flavorful, fresh herbs for cooking it’s better to purchase live plants or bring in smaller plants from your garden. If you start with live plants, choose the healthiest looking plants you can find. Use a good quality potting soil that is very rich and has good drainage. You can make your own soil medium by mixing equal parts of potting soil, peat moss and sand. If you want to be extra careful about your plants getting any diseases from the soil, use a soil-less potting mix. Most herbs will require at least a 6″ pot, plants started from seed will need to be re-potted. You can use long window box planters and add several herbs to the same pot, or even add several to a regular pot if it’s large enough. Herb plants are potted like any other plant, add several inches to the bottom of the pot and then position the plant into the pot. Fill the sides of the pot with soil and then gently press the soil down around the plant. Herbs don’t like soaking wet soil, many herbs have tender roots that will quickly rot if left sitting in water. Follow the watering instructions for each individual herb to make sure that you don’t over water or under water the plant. Normally, giving the plant a thorough soaking is better than watering the plant a little now and then. Either set the plant in water and let it soak it up through the drain holes, or water it until water starts to leak out of the holes. And, only water the plants when the soil becomes dry to the touch. You will need to fertilize your herbs about once a week, but only when they’re growing. Cease fertilization during dormant periods when the growth has slowed or stopped. When using fertilizer be sure to check the label and only use fertilizer that is approved for edible plants. Most types of herbs require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Mint, Thyme, Parsley and Rosemary are a few herbs that can survive in partial shade. But, even with lot’s of sunshine your herbs will grow better if you use supplemental lighting as well. If you don’t have an area that provides enough sunlight, supplement lighting with fluorescent lights. The light fixtures should be around 6 to 8 inches above the top of the plants and leave them on for 14 to 16 hours each day. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
Flamingo Flower
Common Name: Flamingo Flower, Heart Flower, Lady Jane, Pigtail Plant, Painted Tongue Latin Name: Anthurium Family: Araceae Plant Type: Perennial Origin: Colombia Blooming Time: Year round Humidity: High Temperature: 60 – 85*F Height: 20″ Color: Green foliage, white, lavender, red, pink, orange or green spathes Insects and Diseases: Spider mites, scale, mealy bugs, aphids Description: Anthuriums are very popular foliage plants that have large, heart shaped leaves on slender stems. The leaves are generally naturally shiny and are dark green. The flowers aren’t actually flowers, they’re spathes. Spathes are leaves that flare out on the base of the stem. The flower part is the rough spiky part that forms out of the center of the spathe. Lighting: This plant loves lot’s of light, but not direct sunlight. But, it will also survive in low lighting areas of your home. The plant won’t bloom without the correct amount of light, too much light will cause the leaves to be elongated and not as pretty. Watering: Anthurium’s should be thoroughly watered, but allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. If the plant is allowed to be dry for too long it will greatly decrease growth and cause the tips of the leaves to burn and damage the roots. Over watering also damages the roots and causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall. Soil: The soil should be well draining and coarse and should consist of 3 parts of peat, one part small gravel and one part sphagnum moss that has been chopped into small pieces. A small amount of organic potting soil can also be added to the mixture. Younger plants don’t need a soil that is as coarse as more mature plants need. The soil should completely fill in all the area around the roots and you should always use a pot that has a hole in the bottom for drainage. Fertilization: A newly purchased Anthurium shouldn’t need fertilization for several months. Most growers mix slow release fertilizer in with the soil and unless you immediately repot you won’t need to add any extra. When you do fertilize use a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer and mix it to 1/4 of the recommended strength. Choose a fertilizer that is specifically for blooming flowers and apply once per month. Propagation: Propagation can be done from seeds, but Anthuriums produced from seed may take as long as 3 years to start producing blooms. Division and offsets are the best way to propagate when done in the spring time. Toxicity-Poisonous: All parts of the Anthurium are poisonous if ingested. Symptoms will occur as mild stomach disorders. Coming into contact with the sap might cause skin irritation for some people. Tips: Any dead foliage and blooms should be removed near the base of the plant. Be careful when removing any dead parts of the plant not to damage the stem. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
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