Protect Your Houseplants When Moving to a New Home
Tips to Protect Your Houseplants When Moving to A New Home Moving to a new home in a new city can be quite stressful on anyone. Packing everything you own isn’t an easy task. Then you have to worry about unpacking it and putting it all in its proper place. Not to mention all the other things involved with uprooting your family and moving to a new location. While people often spend hours packing their Grandma’s china, they often neglect to properly pack their houseplants for a move. By following these simple tips for packing and moving your houseplants you can be sure that they will arrive at their new home safely. Tip #1 A few weeks before you are scheduled to move, transplant all of your plants in glass pots into unbreakable pots. While it might seem like a good idea to repot the plant into smaller pots to save space, it can do a lot of damage to the plant. It’s best to keep the pot as close to the same size as the original pot as you can. A different sized pot could cause shock to the plant which can stunt growth and even kill the plant. Tip #2 It’s also a really good idea to prune your plants a few weeks before moving. Pruning larger plants can help avoid breakage of the stems or vines during the move. And, pruning is really good for your plants. It can make them stronger and give them more volume. If you have some houseplants that you just do not want to prune, you can place a large garbage bag over them until you get them to their new home. Just remember to remove the bag as soon as they are relocated. Tip #3 At least one week before moving inspect all of your houseplants to make sure they’re not infested with pests. Look for any signs of leaf damage and if you suspect the plant has bugs or mites, treat it to keep from moving them into your new home. Most pests can be easily removed with a simple soap and water solution applied with a spray bottle. If you are not sure how to treat the plant, do some research so you won’t do more harm than good. Tip #4 With a little extra care, houseplants can safely be moved in cardboard boxes. If you have a lot of plants in small containers, you might want to consider picking up some packing boxes made for dishes. These boxes have compartments that can be adjusted to fit the size of your pot. To keep the plants from sliding while being moved, place a non-skid material under the pot. Dampened packing paper can be wrapped around the base of the plant to retain moisture. It can also be used to help cushion the leaves. Once you’ve got your plant packed, make a few holes in the sides and top of the box to allow for airflow. Tip #5 Never transport your houseplants in the trunk of your car especially if you will be traveling for a long distance. Often, carbon monoxide which can be deadly to your plants will gather in the trunk. Keep the plants inside the car, or truck with you and make sure they get lot’s of fresh air. Just make sure that you block the boxes with something so they can’t slide around. Written by Connie Corder, Copyright 2010...
Growing Houseplants in Water
Find Your Green Thumb: How to Grow Houseplants in Water (Hydroponics) If you’ve always wanted to have beautiful lush houseplants but wasn’t blessed with a green thumb, all you need to do is to throw out the dirt! For most plants, soil is basically a medium that simply holds them in place. It also gives them a source of moisture and provides a small amount of nutrients for a short time. But, potting soil isn’t a requirement. In fact, there are several different types of houseplants that grow much better in water than they do in soil. While plants do have specific light requirements, one of the main causes of dead plants is too little or too much water. Plants that don’t receive enough water quickly wither and die while plants that get too much water develop root rot and fungal and bacterial problems that can lead to death. You actually only need three things to successfully grow houseplants… 1. Water 2. Nutrients 3. A medium to hold the plant up! Aside from making it easier to grow houseplants, using water instead of soil has several other big advantages. Growing your plants in water using hydroponics is much healthier – it helps reduce allergies, prevents mildew and mold and water is pest free. It’s also cleaner – you don’t need to worry about soil spilling all over the floor and your furniture. It requires less maintenance – you rarely need to transplant the plants, you don’t have to water them as often and you won’t have to worry about them having enough water while you’re on vacation or away for the weekend. Using water instead of soil offers a lot of advantages for both you and your plants. Because they’re in a liquid, the nutrients are evenly distributed to the roots of the plant. The chances of over watering or under watering are totally eliminated. And, the roots can receive the proper aeration. It also prevents pest infestations and diseases. All of these things promote healthy thriving houseplants. Growing plants without soil is very similar to hydroponic farming. In hydroponic farming crops are grown in a mixture of water and liquid nutrients. However, while hydroponic farming usually is done with an inner and outer pot, you can simply use one pot or vase for your plants. If you choose a vase with a narrow top, no medium is needed to hold the plant in place. If you want to use a pot or vase with a wider opening, you can fill the container with decorative pebbles. Transferring A Soil Grown Plant to Water Even if you have a plant that has been growing in soil you can easily transfer it to a vase or pot of water. Make sure that you allow the soil to dry so that the plant is much easier to transplant. Remove the plant from the pot and remove as much dirt as possible from the roots. You can hold the root ball under warm water and let the water gently remove the dirt without damaging the roots. And, remove any dead roots that you see. Starting A New Houseplant in Water Virtually any houseplant that can be rooted in water can grow permanently in water. It’s a great way to get multiple plants from one single plant. Simply take cuttings of the parent plant making sure that you cut just below a leaf node. The leaf nodes contain the plants highest concentration of natural rooting hormones. Remove any leaves from the stem that will be in the water. Leaves left on the plant will quickly rot and can cause problems for the plant. How to Use Pebbles as A Growing Medium If you need to use pebbles, or just like the decorative look, make sure that you thoroughly rinse them before you place them in the container. Place a layer of pebbles on the bottom of the container as a base. Hold the plant over the container and carefully spread the roots across the pebbles. Once you have the roots in place, gently fill the container up to the desired level with more pebbles. Avoid Using Tap Water Although most plants will happily grow in tap water, spring water or well water is the best choice. Tap water is literally void of any nutrients that the plant needs to flourish. And, while you can certainly add some liquid or water soluble fertilizer to the water, some plants are very sensitive to chlorine. You can also use filtered water, or allow the water to sit overnight so that the chlorine can dissipate. Houseplants That Thrive In Water: Arrowhead Plant Bamboo...
Golden Pothos Devil’s Ivy
The Golden Pothos is one of the most popular houseplants because it is so easy to care for. Also known as Devil’s Ivy, Golden Pothos is a gorgeous vining plant with heart shaped leaves that are variegated in green and yellow. It’s a fast growing plant that is very hardy and can tolerate a variety of indoor conditions. The vines can reach ten feet or more in length which makes them ideal for hanging baskets. If a moss pole or other type of support is provided, the Pothos will create a beautiful climbing houseplant. The Golden Pothos is an excellent beginner plant. This plant isn’t fussy at all and can thrive in both bright sunlight or the dim lighting in a home. The only lighting conditions it can’t tolerate is full direct sun and total darkness. However, the vine will have much more of the yellow variegation if it is exposed to bright filtered light. Pothos prefer a relatively moist soil, but care must be taken not to over water the plant. They have a very shallow root system less water is needed to soak through the soil down to the roots. During the growing season Pothos will do much better if they are watered often. Through the winter months, light or moderate watering is adequate enough to keep the plant thriving. To avoid root rot, make sure that the soil is wet and not soaked. Because Pothos are so hardy, they only need a fertilized about once a month. A good quality plant food with a 20-20-20 mix is recommended to give the plant the needed nutrients. Plant food can be used all year round, but it’s more important to fertilize the plant when it’s actively growing. If the plant stops producing new growth, reduce the frequency of fertilizing to once every two or three months. The Golden Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to propagate. The vines can simply be clipped and rooted in water. The new roots will form at the leaf nodes which are directly under a leaf. Remove the lowest leaves and place the cuttings in water. You can also propagate the vine by air layering, but they root very quickly in water. And, you don’t even have to worry about trimming the plant for propagation because the vine will start a new shoot at the cut area. Although the plant is susceptible to several pests, infestations are rare. Fungal and bacterial problems are the main cause of failure with this houseplant. These problems which cause root rot and leaf spots can be avoided by making sure the soil is only moist and not soaked. Pests include spider mites and mealy bugs, but mealy bugs are most common. They can easily be removed by using a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or an insecticidal soap. Written by Connie Corder, Copyright 2010...
How To Care for A Ponytail Palm
The Ponytail Palm, is also referred to as the “bottle palm” or “elephant foot tree” because of the bulbous base the plant develops. This unique houseplant however isn’t a palm at all. In fact, contrary to it’s appearance it is actually a succulent. It’s an excellent choice for anyone that wants to add the beauty of houseplants to their home without needing to spend a lot of time caring for them. It’s also a very popular choice for growing as a Bonsai. ( Growing and Caring for the Bonsai ) The plants base has a bulging appearance with a more narrow trunk topped with a fountain of long slender leaves resembling blades of grass. The foliage generally curves downward and can be as much as two feet long and just an inch wide. Because the foliage does reach fairly long lengths, it does require a generous amount of space. Although this houseplant can become fairly tall and wide, pruning isn’t an option. Restrict any trimming to removing side shoots that will form as the plant begins to develop new branches. As a young plant, the Ponytail Palm barely has a noticeable trunk at all. Instead, it resembles a onion plant. As the plant matures, the trunk begins to widen and thicken and becomes more pronounced. Eventually, the trunk will develop a brownish gray colored bark with a texture that very closely resembles an elephants foot. The base will continue to grow in size giving the plant a bottle shape. While the Ponytail Palm is extremely slow growing, when grown outside in warm climates it can reach heights of 20 feet or more. Although, when grown as a houseplant, it will generally only reach around three feet in height. And, while it rarely flowers indoors, when grown outdoors it will also produce flower stalks that can reach 16 feet or more in height. The stalks produce clusters of small yellowish or beige colored flowers that open during the summer months. Because the Ponytail Palm originates from desert areas, their root system is very similar to that of a cactus. The plants roots push deep into the soil to store water through dry spells and water is also stored in its wide base. These plants only need to be watered every one to two weeks, but can go as long as four weeks before watering. Before watering make sure that the soil is dry at least one inch into the soil. The soil should be thoroughly soaked and any excess water should be allowed to drain. Native to sunny desert regions, this houseplant flourishes with lots of bright light. However, it can tolerate some periods of shade. A good quality potting soil will work fine, but you can help prevent root rot by using a mixture of half sand and half soil. The plant should be fertilized at least once each month year round. But, increase fertilization to twice monthly when you start to see new growth appearing during the spring. Although pest infestations are rare on the Ponytail Palm they can occur. The plant should be inspected for mites or bugs several times each week. If you do notice any problems you can spray the plant with soapy water or an insecticide. Never spray the plant when the soil is dry and rinse the plant well the next day. Ponytail Palm Growing Tips If the plants lower leaves become yellow or start to turn brown, it’s a good sign that the plant isn’t receiving enough water. The Ponytail Palm prefers to be slightly root bound and only needs repotting about every 3 or 4 years. While this plant definitely loves warm sunny locations, it prefers cooler temperatures of around 50 degrees during the winter months. When you repot the plant water the soil thoroughly but don’t apply any fertilizer for at least four weeks. The loose soil in a newly repotted plant allows too much fertilizer to reach the roots causing them to burn. Written by Connie Corder, Copyright 2010...
How to Make A Living Wreath
If you love houseplants you’re probably always looking for new ways to display them in your home. One of the most unique ways to add live plants to your home is with a living wreath. Living wreaths are not only beautiful they are also a great way to expand your hobby and love of houseplants. While they are widely available commercially, you can easily make your own at a fraction of the cost. The Best Plants for A Living Wreath Although you can use virtually any plant to create a living wreath, the plants watering requirements needs to be carefully considered. Because it is a wreath, watering isn’t as simple as pouring water into the soil. The wreath will need to be taken outside, or placed in a bath tub, watered and allowed to drain thoroughly before rehanging. For this reason, succulents make an excellent choice because they require less frequent watering than other types of plants. If you plan to add a little variety by using several different types of plants, you also need to make sure they have the same basic care requirements. In order to thrive, the plants need to have the same light and water needs. Avoid mixing plants that need full sun with those that grow much better in indirect sunlight. It is also better to choose plants that have smaller root balls that can be inserted into holes in the planting medium. Supplies to make a 12″ living wreath: Wire wreath form Floral pins Fine gauge floral wire Pointed tool to create holes Approximately 3 pounds of Sphagnum moss 1 16 quart bag of potting soil Plants * Place the Sphagnum moss in a container of warm water and let it soak for approximately 20 minutes. * Place the wreath on a flat surface and tie one end of the florist wire onto the wreath. * Layer the moss generously all around the inside of the wreath form. Place the strips so that they will overlap the edge of the form. The overlapping moss will be needed to cover the potting soil and hold the plants securely in the wreath. Cover the entire wreath with moss leaving enough room in the center to fill the wreath with potting soil. * Fill the center of the moss with potting soil. You can use a spray bottle filled with water to moisten the soil so that it will stay in place. Keep in mind that when you water the wreath the soil will settle, so it needs to be packed into the wreath fairly well. * Once the wreath is filled with potting soil wrap the overlapping moss over the soil. Wrap floral wire all around the moss securing it into place. * Before you actually plant any of your plants into the wreath lay them on the top of the wreath to decide on where you want to place each plant. * If the plants have small root balls simply use a sharp tool to make holes in the moss big enough to insert the roots. Plants with larger root balls will need to be planted directly into the soil and then surrounded with moss. * As you insert each plant use some of the floral wire and a few floral pins to hold the plant securely in place. * After you have inserted all of your plants into the wreath, fill in any holes, gaps or bare areas with moss and secure it in place with floral wire. Once your wreath is done, water it thoroughly and let it drain before you hang it. Remember to water your living wreath regularly and in between watering, you can use a spray bottle to mist the plants to add moisture. As the plants grow you can pinch them back or prune them to help them maintain the shape of the wreath. Fertilize the plants in your living wreath just as you would if you were growing them in a container. When it comes to the wreath you have two choices, you can make your own from scratch, or purchase one that is already filled with moss. Making your own is not only cheaper, it will also give you the satisfaction of having created the entire project yourself. And, if you really enjoy working with plants, you will have a lot of fun creating this beautiful living wreath. Written by Connie Corder, Copyright 2010...
How To Keep Your Poinsettia Blooming Past Christmas
Millions of Poinsettias join families everywhere for Christmas. Although the Poinsettia comes in several color varieties, their festive red color just adds so much to holiday decorations. But, once Christmas is over, a Poinsettia seems to lose its color and beauty and often it just die. The Poinsettia is a tropical plant and though very beautiful, in its natural habitat they’re often thought of as weeds! But, especially in America, they’ve became a much loved part of the Christmas tradition for many families. Contrary to what most people think, the brightly colored petals aren’t actual flowers, they’re bracts. The real flower is in the center of the leaf bracts. With the proper care, you can keep your Poinsettia blooming through Christmas and even keep it alive for years to come! Keeping any plant alive depends a lot on the health of the plant when you purchase it. It’s easier to keep a healthy plant healthy, than it is to try and save a damaged one. Pay close attention to the flowers on the plant. Flowers that are all yellow indicate an older plant, if the flowers have red or green tips, it’s an indication of a fresher plant. When you purchase Poinsettias, they generally always come wrapped in a bright festive foil. Lift the pot out of the foil, if the lower stems are covered in leaves it’s a healthy plant! If the plant has just been sitting in water, chances are the roots have rotted and the plant might not survive. Once you get it home, get rid of the foil wrapping. Place the pot into a decorative container with rocks or other support in the bottom to hold the plant up out of the water. If the plant is really soaked when you purchase it, let it sit in the sun awhile to dry up some of the water. Poinsettias like bright sunny places, but if you sit it near a window, make sure the leaves aren’t touching the cold glass. At least six hours of bright, indirect sun is ideal lighting for Poinsettias. They don’t like cold air, so keep them away from drafts. And, having them too close to a heating vent will keep the soil too dry. Before watering the plant always feel of the soil. Remember that even when the soil is dry on the top, the bottom of the soil will probably be very moist. Stick your finger down into the soil about 1/2 inch deep, if it’s still moist at that level, wait a couple of days before watering. You shouldn’t let the soil get real dry, but over watering is just as bad. Keep the soil evenly moist and provide good drainage in the bottom of the pot. Poinsettias love warm days and cool nights. If you don’t want to turn the thermostat down during the night, move the plant to a cooler room and then return it the next morning. If you just love the look of the foil wrapper and want to leave it on the plant, make some small holes in the bottom of it for drainage. Then you can water it in the sink and return it to the table after it’s quit draining. While Poinsettias are considered a Christmas plant, they’re definitely not just disposable decorations. Given the proper care, Poinsettias can live year round. And, even after they’ve lost their brightly colored bracts, they will make a beautiful foliage plant for your home. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
How To Properly Care For Your Christmas Cactus
While Poinsettias are probably the most popular Christmas plant, there are many people that wouldn’t consider celebrating the holiday season without a Christmas cactus. The Schlumbergera, or Christmas cactus has been a favorite holiday plant since the 1800’s. Even though the Christmas cactus is a true cacti, unlike other cacti that normally grow in the heat of the desert, they grow in trees in tropical rain forests. And, therefore don’t like as much sun as most cacti, they should be kept in an area that gets bright indirect sunlight. Christmas cactus will adapt to low lighting conditions, but they bloom much better when exposed to bright indirect light. They can even be set outdoors and will do quite well as long as they’re not setting in bright sun. And, are brought inside before the weather gets too cold. This tropical cactus isn’t as drought tolerant as other cacti, although being a succulent, it does store some water in the leaves. The Christmas cactus should be watered when the top inch or so of the soil becomes dry. Don’t follow a regular watering schedule, the temperature in the room, humidity and even the growth rate will vary. Only water when the top of the soil is dry. Christmas cacti are very adaptable to temperatures, they can survive temperatures as low as 35* and as high as 100*. But, the excessive high and low temperatures can cause a lot of damage to the plant. The best temperature to keep them at is between 65* and 80*. They don’t require a lot of fertilizing, between 2 and 4 times each year is more than sufficient to keep them healthy. A high quality fertilizer that is labeled 20-20-20 is excellent. And, if you have had your plant for awhile and know the approximate time when it will bloom, don’t use any fertilizer about a month before the new buds should appear. The soil has to be a well draining mixture, this is very important to prevent root rot. You can purchase a good quality commercial potting soil that is mixed especially for succulents. If you like mixing your own soil mediums, use one part clean sand and two parts of regular potting soil. After your plant has lost it’s blooms, you can encourage the stems to branch out by pruning them. Just remove a few of the sections of the stems with a sharp knife. These sections can then be placed into some moist vermiculite and they will root to propagate new plants. To get your Christmas cactus to bloom again the following season, they need a little extra attention. In order to bloom, they need long periods of darkness and temperatures around 50* at night. The shorter days and cooler temperatures let the plant know when it’s time to bloom! Around the middle of October you can begin the dark treatments to have them blooming by the holidays. The ideal conditions to force blooming is to keep the plant at the cooler temperature, cut back on watering and provide them with 12 to 14 hours of complete darkness each night. Written by Connie Corder for HouseplantsForYou.com, Copyright 2008 All Rights...
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